
When it comes to horse bits and bitting there are so many options that it can be very confusing to the uninitiated. So the following is an attempt to cover off some points worth considering and give an over view of some of the broad categories of bits.
Fitting a bit
When the bit is in the horse’s mouth, there should be a 6mm (1/4”) space on either side of the mouth. When the height of the bit in the horse’s mouth is correct the corners of the mouth should wrinkle slightly.
Choosing a bit
When choosing a bit for a new horse, consider what the horse has been ridden in before as this is almost always a good place to start. If you have no idea of what your horse has previously been ridden in a snaffle bit can be a good first option as most horses go well in some sort of simple snaffle.
If you find your horse is having difficulty holding the bit, is lolling his tongue, tossing his head, or stiffening his jaw and poll, it may be because the bit is uncomfortable in its mouth. If that is the case it makes sense to try a different bit and/or get your horse checked by a horse dentist.
You should be riding in the mildest bit that still allows you to communicate clearly with your horse. Sometimes you’ll have to try a few bits to find one that your horse is happy in.
Mild or Severe?
In general, the thinner the mouthpiece, the more severe the bit is. It is important to note that the bit should not be too thick for the horse – a horse with a fine mouth can be prevented from closing its mouth properly if the bit is too thick.
While some bits are definitely more severe than others, the hands at the end of the reins are what ultimately cause the impact on the horse.
Other features of bits
Some horse bits have rollers in the centre of the bit that will help relax a young, inexperienced horse if he is uptight. By playing with the rollers his attention is diverted and his jaw is relaxed and this sometimes makes it easier to get him to hold the bit.
Because a salivating horse is a more relaxed horse, some bits are designed specifically to produce salivation. These include such bits as copper, sweet iron and happy mouth bits.
Rubber bits and happy mouth bits are also able to provide a softer and more comfortable alternative to cold metal. Note that these bits have a steel core and the bits need regular checking to make sure the core is not exposed at all – if the core becomes exposed the bit needs to be replaced.
DIFFERENT TYPES OF BITS
Snaffle Bits – are jointed and so hinge in the middle. Pressure starts at the horse’s outer mouth. As more pressure is applied it begins to affect the bars of the mouth, then the jointed mouth piece exerts a nut cracker effect pressuring the tongue and sometimes the palate. Snaffle bits are designed for riding with two hands, each side of the bit moving independently of the other and each side of the face being cued without disturbing the other
With an eggbutt snaffle the shape of the cheeks prevents the bit from pinching the horse’s lips.
The cannons (or bars) on hollow mouthed bits are hollow, which makes the bit nice and light. Wider tapers on the bars indicate a milder bit.
In the case of a french link mouthpiece the plate follows the line of the tongue, allowing more tongue room and taking more pressure off the bars
Generally speaking a snaffle is good for teaching a horse to turn, but not so good for getting them to stop. Snaffles tend to be good bits for starting young horses in.
Mullen Mouth Bits – have a solid bar mouth with slight curve. Generally considered a very mild bit. There is no dramatic point of pressure, but the tongue is compressed and the bars are pressured. These encourage the horse to move forward and push their tongue against the bit. The softer the bit material the greater the encouragement to do so.
Kimberwick Bits – the mouthpiece terminates at the top of ‘D’ shaped rings. They can have straight mouthpieces, jointed mouthpieces or a straight mouthpiece with a port—an inverted “U” in the middle of the mouthpiece. There is a small ring to attach the curb strap or chain. Kimberwick bits provide more curb action to a horse that may be a strong puller or needs slight curb action to lower its head. They are a curb (leverage) bit. The further the reins slide down the D ring, the more leverage is applied. The curb chain or strap prevents the bit from rotating too far in the horse’s mouth. When the reins are pulled back the bit applies pressure to the bars of the mouth, the chin and the poll. If there is a port, there may be pressure on the roof of the mouth.
Cheeked Bits – these put pressure on the sides of the face to encourage the horse to turn.
Curb Bits – are frequently identified with western riding. They often have a solid mouthpiece and have varying heights of center port. The port either gives relief to the tongue or is used to put pressure on the palate or both depending on how high it is. They also apply pressure to the bars of the mouth, the chin, and the poll. Those with solid mouthpieces and fixed cheeks are meant to be ridden with one hand only. Generally speaking a curb bit is not good for getting a horse to turn but is great for getting them to stop. However, with too much pull it may cause a horse to throw its head out of the turn or up to escape the curb pressure. The length and proportions of the shanks (cheeks) dictate the amount of curb pressure and leverage (pressure applied to the chin groove, palate, tongue and bars of the horse’s mouth). Longer shanks magnify the rider’s hands and apply more pressure. Short shanks or no shanks at all apply the least pressure.
Pelham Bits – allow the use of two reins at one time and combine the attributes of the D-Ring Snaffle with the Curb Bit. In other words, they can be ridden with or without leverage and curb action depending on which rein is taken up. They are an effort to solve the deficiencies of both the snaffle and curb used alone. These are best used only by experienced riders, but if a rider has enough coordination to handle two sets of reins, these have the potential to provide the best of both worlds.

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